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私藏的浙西美味小县城 攻略上找不到的店铺大放送

2019-07-14 21:22:16   来源:未知
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可能是因为它的吃辣属性全省唯一,阿球对衢州一直情有独钟。先后写了被韩寒搬进电影的龙游,以及让陈晓卿赞不绝口的开化。今天依旧是衢州小县城系列:中国第7个国际慢城常山。 一个段落介绍常山 这里的慢受到国际认证 虽然杭州-常山有动车直达。但因为只有一班,且时间比较一般。所以阿球还是选择了在衢州中转。 从高铁站出来,有直达常山的巴士。交通还是便利的。 慢是常山的代名词。两度上榜全国百佳深呼吸小城,雾霾永远不会成为忧虑,堵车更是难以见到的奇景。 它是中国第七个国际慢城,也是2018中国幸福百县之一。 公园里坐着鸭子船游湖,扛着钓竿到河边静坐一下午,或者借着太阳光细细阅读报纸新闻,安逸的气质刻在城市的骨髓之中。 县城之外的村镇更让人着迷,没有太多游客,还保留着传统古朴一面。偶然发现的小商铺让阿球恍惚回忆起小时候。 如果你投宿村中一晚,第二天早上的早市更让人激动不已。一个个小摊摆在路边,卖完就收摊。村里人用方言寒暄、讲价,哪怕什么都不买,人群里挤一圈也足够开心。 好山好水让当地人对自己的美食也极为自信。 苏轼笔下的月亮湾仍有渔民每日撒网捕鱼,岸边的渔家乐一条街让无数人千里迢迢赶来尝鲜。 丧心病狂常山辣 县城极不起眼的

  可能是因为它的吃辣属性全省唯一,阿球对衢州一直情有独钟。先后写了被韩寒搬进电影的龙游,以及让陈晓卿赞不绝口的开化。今天依旧是衢州小县城系列:中国第7个国际慢城——常山。

  一个段落介绍常山

  这里的慢受到国际认证

  虽然杭州-常山有动车直达。但因为只有一班,且时间比较一般。所以阿球还是选择了在衢州中转。

  从高铁站出来,有直达常山的巴士。交通还是便利的。

  慢是常山的代名词。两度上榜全国百佳深呼吸小城,雾霾永远不会成为忧虑,堵车更是难以见到的“奇景”。

  它是中国第七个国际慢城,也是2018中国幸福百县之一。

  公园里坐着鸭子船游湖,扛着钓竿到河边静坐一下午,或者借着太阳光细细阅读报纸新闻,安逸的气质刻在城市的骨髓之中。

  县城之外的村镇更让人着迷,没有太多游客,还保留着传统古朴一面。偶然发现的小商铺让阿球恍惚回忆起小时候。

  如果你投宿村中一晚,第二天早上的早市更让人激动不已。一个个小摊摆在路边,卖完就收摊。村里人用方言寒暄、讲价,哪怕什么都不买,人群里挤一圈也足够开心。

  好山好水让当地人对自己的美食也极为自信。

  苏轼笔下的月亮湾仍有渔民每日撒网捕鱼,岸边的渔家乐一条街让无数人千里迢迢赶来尝鲜。

“丧心病狂”常山辣

“丧心病狂”常山辣

 

  县城极不起眼的店铺却已经伫立了百年,藏在巷子里的“小脏摊”让周围人三天不吃心痒痒。

  一份油炸粿臭豆腐夹饼让你再也忘不了这里的风味。

  每次离家,朋友的爸爸都会给她寄家里的山茶油、猪油、辣椒粉、笋干、豆角干、小鱼干、粉干、酱肉……

  不为啥,就因为常山人坚信外面没有这么好的东西。

  县城就足够你吃3天

  多得是开了十几年的老店

  因为到达时间还比较早,吃午饭前,朋友带着阿球逛了几个景点。

  文峰塔坐落的塔山公园,小径幽深、阿球还开玩笑的跟朋友说:如果旁边再有个湖,阿球会以为在爬孤山。

  只有短短400米的芳村老街,铁匠、木匠、剃头匠……许多老手艺人还在这里坚守,细细逛一逛也能发现不少惊喜。

  山水相融的东明湖公园,是当地人的逍遥地,即使是在工作日,湖面上也有人划着鸭子船。

  城外不远处的古刹,和田地相邻能极为沉静地享受禅意和田园风情。在常山港欣赏落日,也是别地难寻的放松。……体验后的强推,租个共享单车或者电动车逛县城真的爽。

  不可不吃的两家老店

  📍

  游氏品香馆

  没去常山之前,朋友就已经开始跟我念叨这家百年馄饨店。

  但真的见到,让阿球吓了一跳,因为它没有阿球想象中的百年气派,小小的一个门脸,面积大概只有20平米,桌子也少得可怜。

  但朋友每次回家都要来这里吃一次找找家的感觉和童年的回忆。

  当地人点餐标配:一碗小馄饨加一个麦香饼。

  馄饨是非物质遗产,皮极薄,可以看见里面粉嫩的肉馅。汤调得蛮鲜。

  但对于外地人阿球来说最惊喜的还是现烙的麦香饼,面皮很脆,肉馅很扎实。是第一个还没吃完就想第二个的美味。

  地址:龙门路3号

  📍

  球川老太婆粉干

  老太婆粉干对于常山人的意义,大概就是写美食集合不写老太婆,会被刷一版的留言质疑“老太婆呢?”、“阿球还是不太会吃!”

  老太婆粉干在自己家做生意,藏在小区里,即使是当地人也要绕一下。但还是有无数人不辞辛苦来寻觅。一是为了它的美味,二是为了店主“老太婆”的嘴硬心软,温情无限。

  老太婆只做粉干,想吃得丰富这里可能就不太适合你了。

  食材、调味品全部自己采购准备,满满的一碗汤粉干端上桌,感觉手稍一不稳,汤就要漫出来。配料有菜有肉,味道就是人们常说的家的味道。不过据说老太婆会给自己放暑假,从7月到9月都会休息。

  地址:渡口小区24幢东单元101

  营业时间:11:00-13:30.16:30-18:30

  📍如果老太婆真的放暑假去了,想吃炒粉干还可以去红旗豆花店(柚香路10号)。当地人早餐胜地,吃完辣乎乎的粉干,干一碗豆花,依旧是条好汉!

  当地人领去吃的地道店

  📍

  冬根餐厅

  常山第一餐,阿球被带去了朋友家附近的一个小区底层商铺。

  讲真如果不是本地人带,阿球可能去800次也不会吃到这一顿。

  店面虽小,但五脏俱全。进门左手边是厨房,右手边就是配菜间,老板每天进货,食客看菜点单,新鲜有保障。

  点菜阿球全权交给了本地人。因为忘了记菜名,所以只能告诉大家:鱼好吃的!肉厚,炖得入味,个头大刺也大,稍微处理一下就能吃得安心。

  最下方的一盘青菜(想不起它的名字)超好吃,嫩嫩的带点自然的甜,如果桌上只有阿球一个人,我相信我能自己干掉大半盘。

  地址:渡口小区31幢

  📍

  龙成饺子

  因为不是专门为采编去的,所以没有变换花样打卡店铺。

  这家龙成饺子阿球呆了3天吃了两次,在阿球朋友心中的地位不一般。回来搜索了才知道原来是创建于1999年的真·老店。

  同样是后厨看菜点单。虽然煎饺是主打菜色。但阿球却爱上了煎饺之外的两道菜。

  一道野生小溪鱼,小小的一个,能直接整个塞嘴里嚼碎,满嘴都是它的鲜嫩。

  一道是豆皮牛腩?(阿球忘记菜名了,感兴趣的朋友可以直接拿图去问),牛腩炖得软软嫩嫩,半点不难嚼,但最好吃还是满满的豆制品,吸了满身的汁,让美味直接在嘴里爆开。打了个结的豆腐皮嚼起来厚实,但又有滋有味。

  营业到凌晨一点,来吃夜宵也不错。

  地址:大生巷31号

  📍

  油炸粿臭豆腐夹饼

  外地人找不着,当地人几乎人人知晓。藏在工行旁边弄堂里的小摊生意可是爆炸好。每天下午四五点就收摊。

  朋友说她好几次回家还在车上就发微信让她的老爸提前去买,就害怕吃不着。

  这里的夹饼一定要尝,一个油炸粿、几块臭豆腐、超多辣椒酱夹进烧饼里,哪怕是微辣也能辣得冒汗,但吃着真的超带劲,阿球硬是忍着辣一口口吃光。

  地址:大街66号工行旁边弄堂里

  这些小吃也不能错过

  / 常山醅糕 /

  醅糕也是常山人的乡愁,口味甜咸两种,咸口的更是几乎所有你喜欢的配菜都可以往上放。刚出炉时口味软绵,放凉变干以后还可以用菜籽油煎着吃,外脆内糯,带着火香。

  📍常山培糕:天马街道龙门路8号

  / 三头一掌 /

  衢州盛名在外的三头一掌,下饭下酒打牙祭都是一绝。

  不再多做介绍。直接步入正题。

  📍周家食堂:去骨的凉拌鸡爪真的吃的爽,鱼头也很受欢迎,中午13:40-16:00是休息时间(大桥路与白马路交叉口)

  📍小末家私厨:网红店,鸡爪超有名,超辣但又有一点柠檬香,很夏天的味道(天马街道天马路89号一层)

  📍天马美食大排档:常山知名夜宵聚集地,晚上可以来觅食(文峰东路与朝阳路交叉口东北150米)

  📍

  郑阿姨糯米饭

  出摊17年,郑阿姨的糯米饭只有勤奋的人才能吃得到,每天早上5:30准时出现,8点左右就卖得差不多了。

  三轮车上只有糯米饭、榨菜、油条、白糖芝麻、辣椒酱、里脊肉以及自己制作的时令小菜,没什么花头但却是附近街坊戒不了的美味。

  地址:天马街道文峰东路35号(中国农业银行门口)

  球川古镇

  贡面、豆腐、雪片糕是三绝

  / 贡面 /

  贡面,当地人称索面,是一种以面粉掺以山茶油,配加盐水调和拉制晾干而成的手工面。

  早在唐咸亨时期就开始生产。制作工序极为复杂,科技再发达依旧只能全程人工完成。

  调料是决定面条味道的重点所在。红油,得是新昌的传统木榨山茶油加上干辣椒熬制;面条,便是洁白似银美亦香的常山贡面;猪油,要是地道农家土猪宰杀后挑选最上等的肥肉熬制而成。

  煮的时候也有讲究,面头先煮一分钟左右,再将面身放入锅中煮3分钟,让它拥有独特的食感。出锅后,面上再窝一个鸡蛋,美得冒泡。

  / 球川豆腐 /

  球川是“浙西豆腐第一镇”,在常山县城虏获粉丝无数的豆腐饼,看店名几乎都打着球川的名号。

  镇里的豆腐加工户除了磨豆使用机器外,其余工序全部手工完成。豆腐灶、沥浆架、榨架、豆腐架都有些年头。

  2008年,球川豆腐传统制作工艺更是被列入了衢州市非物质文化遗传保护名录。

  一碟小小的霉豆腐,可以下两碗饭。

  / 雪片糕 /

  球川雪片糕制作工艺也是县级非物质文化遗产,相传从乾隆年间就已经诞生。

  由于历史的原因,如今球川镇里只有两户人家在做。店址在三十六天井不远处的临街作坊。

  包装比较简陋,价格也不贵,但了解后才知道制作工序也超级复杂。要将糯米洗净、晒干、炒熟、回潮、再烘干、碾碎,加白糖调成粉状,冲水炒匀……听着听着就只能感叹了。

  吃起来口感比较绵软,甜味适中。撕下一片蘸点牛奶、豆奶,更是风味独特。

  何家乡长风村

  想吃鱼就认准这里

  何家乡是钱塘江流入常山的第一站。极佳的水质让许多种野生鱼类聚集于此,同时也让每条鱼的品质都是上佳,味道无敌鲜美。

  因此诗情画意的月亮湾旁,从事打渔的村民许许多多。远近闻名的“渔家乐一条街”也慢慢成型。

  神奇的将军鱼做法,只掏内脏,不去鱼鳞,吃时围着鱼鳞吃 @CCTV《乡土》

  除了将军鱼、鳜鱼、草鱼、竹鱼、鲫鱼、小溪鱼、石斑鱼、鲶鱼、汪刺鱼、胖头鱼等十种“土生土长”的鱼类。

  这里还有红烧山羊肉、养身排骨汤……等一系列原生态特色菜,一桌吃到尽兴。

  今年1月,长风村还举行了首届常山鲜辣美食节,评选出了12家鲜辣美食体验店。范围辐射县城及各个乡镇,大家可以做个参考。

  县城美食推荐:

  游氏品香馆:龙门路3号

  球川老太婆粉干:渡口小区24幢东单元101

  红旗豆花店:柚香路10号

  冬根餐厅:渡口小区31幢

  龙成饺子:大生巷31号

  油炸粿臭豆腐夹饼:大街66号工行旁边弄堂里

  常山培糕:天马街道龙门路8号

  周家食堂:大桥路与白马路交叉口

  小末家私厨:天马街道天马路89号一层

  天马美食大排档:文峰东路与朝阳路交叉口东北150米

  郑阿姨糯米饭:天马街道文峰东路35号(中国农业银行门口)

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